Standing Before the Remains of the Gods

Waking up at 8 AM this morning I never thought that my day would incite both emotional extremes: near ecstasy and unnerving fear. I had planned last night to tour the pyramid complex in Giza with a friend who also had not gone before. Both of us became excited at the thought of visiting a site so ancient and epic in scale; it's what happens when you pair up two humanities majors for an adventure. Brenden, my friend who was to accompany me, however, was forced to wait in an Egyptian government office for the visa he needed for our upcoming break next week, and therefore, unable to go with me to the pyramids. Knowing that I had been looking forward to going, Brenden was kind enough to guide me through the Cairo metro station and set me on the train to Giza.

While I have ridden in the Philadelphia subway on numerous occasions, nothing quite compares to the Cairo metro system. On a whole I would say that it is cleaner than its American counterparts; however, it lacks the extensive air conditioning equipment found back in the States. After taking the train for about 15 minutes I arrived at Giza Station, roughly a 15 minute taxi ride from the pyramids. As is the case elsewhere in the city, especially at bastions of Western culture like the malls, taxi drivers wait for potential clients right outside the station, darting forward at the sight of any non-Egyptian looking person. The driver that drove me to Giza was extremely nice and chatty for a Cairene (resident of Cairo) taxi driver. Using the limited Arabic I knew, we chatted about my travels around Egypt and the city, as well as the hardships of fasting during Ramadan. Side note: I've been fasting on-and-off throughout September, which this year is the Muslim Holy Month of Ramadan, as a way to reinvigorate my senses, specifically taste. He was also nice enough or business savvy enough to drop me off right by a stable, which are a dime a dozen by the pyramids. Horseback and camel riding are one of the main sources of income for the residents of Giza, and many of them are excellent horsemen, even young children handle Arabian stallions with ease. I was welcomed into the home of the stable's owner, a middle-aged Egyptian man; I unfortunately do not recall his name. Regardless, we talked for almost 20 minutes before turning to the reason I had come to Giza: to see the pyramids. As it seems to be the case with any tourist spot, Egyptians attempt to talk you into buying the most expensive item and are very persistent, but if you are stalwart in demanding exactly what you want, you will eventually triumph. With this in mind, I listened to the gentleman's offers for touring the pyramid complex and I had to ask for the simplest package several times before he ended it with a reoccurring phrase, "As you wish." It is the clear indicator that you have won the deal haha. For 200 Egyptian pounds, roughly $40 American, I was provided with a camel (named Banana), a guide who rode with me, and an entry pass to the plateau. My guide, named Abdullah, like his boss, was extremely personable and catered the trip to my desires. Seeing that Banana would move at a very slow pace, we spent a good portion of the trek talking in both Arabic and English about our families, plans for the coming Eid (religious holiday), and his affinity for the European tourists that frequented the pyramids.

Having never been on a camel before, it was a little unsettling at first. Unlike any other moving object I've been in a camel rocks side-to-side as it walks forwards, occassionally trotting. With both the guide and I riding together on a single camel, we moved a little quicker when Abdullah would spur Banana. I can see now why it took so long for desert caravans to arrive at their destinations and the camel was not widely used as a war animal. Despite its drawbacks, the camel is pretty mild in tempermant and not skiddish like a horse, which made my trek more enjoyable. Riding for nearly two hours, I was able to walk up to the 3 main pyramids on the plateau and take pictures of the area. Thanks to Abdullah's help, I have a number of pictures to show.


As for the part about unnerving fear, since I had left the dorm this morning without much forethought aside from grabbing my camera and the Gazette for pictures, I forgot to withdraw more money. Having paid for my transportation and the site seeing, I was left with 10 pounds by the time to leave. Ontop of this predicament, there were no ATM's in sight. Attempting to relate this problem to my guide in the best Arabic I could muster, we walked for nearly a mile without any luck. I could not think of a worse situation to be in, then be stuck a good 30 minutes from the dorms and without the money to pay for a cab ride home. Luckily, by what I consider divine intervention, my guide negogiated with a cab driver to get me to an ATM and then I'd pay the driver. The first ATM we came to had run out of money to dispense; dread crept over my face at this point. I felt myself grow clamy and had the urge to throw up despite not having had anything to eat since the morning. Al-hamdulliah (Thanks be to God) the next ATM was working and allowed me to withdraw money. Needless to say, I was very relieved to tell the driver to take me back to the dorms and I showed my appreciation for his patience by giving him an extra 15 pounds.

In retropsect, today was among the most eventful days that I have experienced since arriving in Cairo. While I wanted to break down and cower at several points, I continued to tell myself that I would make it home somehow, even if it required a little stress haha.

Ma'salaama for now,
Andrew