Cities of Echoes

As I had promised back on Thursday, I would continue to share my experiences from my trip to Palestine last week, this time focusing exclusively on my observations from the West Bank. To offer a brief history lesson, the area referred to as the West Bank had been part of the Kingdom of Jordan following the collapse of the British Trans-Jordanian Mandate following the Second World War's conclusion in 1945. However, the Israeli victory in the Six-Day War of1967 with neighboring Arab nations led to the occupation of the West Bank of the Jordan River valley and has since become part of the state of Israel. What followed this event is nothing short of a humanitarian disaster, referred to by Palestinians as al-Naqba, or "the catastrophe." While the term had originated initially after the establishment of Israel in 1948 and the subsequent mass displacement of Palestinians, al-Naqba has also been used to the physical occupation of the West Bank region in 1967. Additionally, in more recent decades, Palestinians have suffered significant infringement upon basic human rights, such as freedom to move freely, maintain property, and protect themselves. In an effort to gain some semblance of self-government and diplomatic recognition within Israel and abroad, various political groups have sprung up in the Occupied Territories, including Hamas, Fatah, Jibha, and the Palestinian Authority (new version of the PLO). During my travels through the various Palestinian cities, like Ramallah and Bethlehem, I had an opportunity to speak with members of these organizations and ask about their goals/outlooks for the future. A salient trait I found was that Palestinians would like to see an end to the demeaning process of check-points and ID cards, which are used as tools of intimidation and oppression. For instance, imagine if everytime you wished to leave Ocean City or any town for that matter, you had to wait sometimes up to an hour to leave or came to the check-point to find that it had been closed for "security reasons." I believe that you would eventually feel a sense of utter hopelessness and perhaps, great animosity towards the soldier on the other side of that fence. While I do not deny that Israelis do have much to fear from their neighbors, particularly Iran and Syria, and this may warrant some of their strict security measures, but I ask how does oppressing millions of ordinary individuals create any true security? If anything, as the numerous suicide bombings in Israeli cities attest to, oppression only leads to further violence and hinders any peace efforts.

Moreover, the open defiance of Israeli settlers in close proximity to Palestinian communities, as in Hebron and Bethlehem, towards obeying their government's orders to cease expansion is another dimension of the conflict that I witnessed first hand. Just a few days before visiting the city of Hebron, which is considered holy by all 3 monotheistic religions for its relation to Abraham, the Israeli Defense Force (IDF) forcibly removed Jewish settlers from a house that they had seized illegally from Palestinians. Instances like this are fairly commonplace in the West Bank where settlers, through Israeli government loans and special programs, establish compounds sometimes right ontop of exisiting Palestinian communities. As my group toured Hebron with a local resident I could not help but notice that home's had had their windows broken and doors spray-painted with Stars of David. Making matters worse is that many of these settlers are now entering the ranks of the IDF and manning posts in their settlements. To make it clear, these settlers are, in my opinion, akin to any other religious extremist, whether it is an evangelical Christian detonating a bomb at an abortion clinic or a Muslim jihadist strapping on a dynamite belt to blow apart a bus. All of these individuals should be equally treated as terrorist and tried for disturbing the general peace. It is hard to argue otherwise when you meet Palestinian families that had their door kicked in the other night or had their relative's tombstone decicrated and broken.

Check-Points and Chapped Lips

"I pledge allegiance to the world nothing more, nothing less than my humanity I pledge allegiance to the world until the last lock breaks none of us are free" -Strike Anywhere "To the World"

Over the course of this past week I spent my vacation traveling through Israel and its occupied territories in the West Bank region with a group of friends. All of us have become extremely interested in the current situation regarding the treatment of Palestinians within Israel, who have become dispersed across the area following Israel's numerous wars. Prior to the establishment of Israel in 1948 and the partitioning of Palestine, much of what we now refer to as Israel was occupied by Arab Palestinians (Muslim and Christian) and Ottoman Turks, along with a significant Jewish minority. I do not wish to make it seem like I am trying to pass judgment on the emergence of the Israeli state; that is not for me to decide upon considering that I have not done serious research. Rather all I can speak about are the personal experiences and observations that I have taken from the past week spent trekking through Israel and the West Bank.

When crossing the border at Taba in Egypt to Israel the contrast between the two nations became very apparent, very quickly. On the Egyptian side the process of exiting the country was fairly relaxed and completed with the usual Arab casualness that I have come to appreciate greatly over these past months. A mere 150 feet away laid the Israeli border crossing station, enclosed by fences, turrets, and processing terminals. One of the first things that made me uneasy when entering Israel was the amount of security personel roaming the terminal, randomly picking individuals to interview to determine their threat level. Dressed in plain, civilian clothing the Israeli security personel pulled two of my friends aside to inquire about their reasons for entering the country. One friend, an Indian named Afsar, was drilled by an officer about his studies at the AUC, why he had a special entry visa (Indian citizen have to get a special visa prior to crossing, whereas Americans and Europeans do not), and if he knew anyone in Israel. Another friend, an American named Taylor, was approached because he had traveled to Israel several times during the past year, which apparently is circumspect to Israelis. As a result of my friends being interviewed and me traveling with them, all of us received a special yellow sticker on the back of our passports indicating that we were of a higher threat level than others - I guess now I can say I am a real rebel or something haha. From the terminal it was onto another processing area where our bags were x-rayed, phones scanned for explosives, and drilled about our itininaries while in Israel. Luckily, my group had developed a detailed itininary, which left 3 days at the end of the trip open-ended. To the Israeli border officers we said that we had left some time open so we could decide if we wanted to stay in Jerusalem longer or travel to Haifa - in reality, those 3 days were when we visited the West Bank.

Nearly an hour later we were on our way to the city of Elilat, where we then caught a bus to Tel Aviv, which is among my new favorite places to go. Situated along the Mediterranean Sea about half-way up the coast of Israel, Tel Aviv is the recognized capital of the country and its cultural headquarters. It reminded me very much of a mixture of the Jersey Shore and Philadelphia, in that there was burgeoning nightlife scene and beautiful beaches. My group was fortunate to have had a day at the beach and enjoying the 75 degree weather, then going out at night to a cool litte place called the British Pub. Located right in the middle of the nightlife scene in the city, our group got to meet a number of locals. During the course of the night I met 3 Israeli girls, all in their early twenties and living in neighboring communities. All had served in the military and had recently been discharged after 2 years of mandatory service. One girl, named Shira, now works on a kibuttz right outside of the city teaching English and French pre-teens. It was interesting to hear an Israeli perspective on the conflict in the country and gain knowledge about growing up in Israel. During the upcoming semester I may interview her formally as a source for my senior thesis concerning the Arab-Israeli conflict - something that will surely set my work apart from others.

After having spent 3 days in Tel Aviv, my group headed to Jerusalem and the West Bank. As soon as we arrived early Sunday evening we dropped our backpacks and scrambled across the Old City to get to the Mountain of Olives for sunset. According to the Bible, the Mountain of Olives is where Jesus frequently met with his Apostles and would eventually share his last days with them leading up to the crucifixion. From the top of this steep hill you are provided with one of the most amazing sights: a total view of the Old City. On the way back down we visited the garden where Jesus and his Apostles met the night before his death and he prayed to God, asking why he was to be killed. Upon entering the Old City again we toured the Arab and Christian quarters, which consist of narrow cobblestone streets lined by stalls selling everything imaginable, from shoes to pastries. My favorite place was a pastry shop called Jafar's Sweets, which sells the best kenafeh (traditional Palestinian pastry - akin to baklava) in the city. During the following days we visited the various holy sites in the city: the Wailing Wall, al-Aqsa mosque/Dome of the Rock, and the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Each one was breathtaking and caused me to well up because of the strong spiritual presence found within them. At each site I prayed for friends and loved ones of all the faiths, making sure not to exclude anyone.

As for my adventures in the West Bank, I need some time to reflect more on them before putting anything in my blog. Also, I am extremely tired from my 12 hours of traveling back to Cairo, which begun at 10 PM last night.

Ma'salaama for now,

Andrew

Close to Home

Happy Thanksgiving everyone! Contrary to what you might think, it is possible to have a classic American turkey dinner in Cairo. A number of butchers and grocery stores stock turkeys for the holiday season since there is a significant American expatriate community living here. This evening I will be sharing a dinner with friends in their apartment - it should be great! What I miss most about being here for Thanksgiving is not so much the food, rather I long for the family component to the holiday. Specifically, the fact that everyone gathers together for numerous hours and engages in lengthy conversations about all sorts of topics. I guess being removed from this reoccurring event has shown that it does truly mean something to me. Being here in Cairo has caused me to take a more serious look at what I am thankful for this year than in the past. Foremost, I thank God for having a very loving "family," which is not limited to blood-relatives but also friends and other loved ones. My safe travels and life experiences in Egypt are also something that I thank God for this Thanksgiving. Well, I am off to enjoy turkey and the fixings with friends at their apartment. Cheers!

Ma'salaama for now,

Andrew

Currently Listening To:

City and Colour "What Makes a Man?"

My March to the Sea

Judging by my last post you might have gotten the impression that my enthusiasm for being in Cairo had been spent and all I was doing was counting the days until home. While this remains partially true, particularly the increased longing for home and loved ones, some of my past week's experiences have reaffirmed my affinity for Egypt. Two things have caused this drastic switch in my demeanor within the span of a week: friendships that I have developed here and a trip to the Black and White Deserts.

Of all the things that I will most miss about Cairo are the friends that I have made over the course of the past 4 months. These individuals, whom I could easily consume pages with describing their personalities, come from diverse backgrounds. Some Muslim, some Coptic, some atheist. The cliche of "variety is the spice of life" has never rung truer for me than being here. Provided my upbringing in the bastion of white, middle-class suburbia that is South Jersey, it may appear that I am simply experiencing the effects of living in a major city. Yes, there is no denying that I have grown more accustomed to "big city" life than I am used to. However, something is unique about life in Cairo and the people I have met here. Of all the people I have met while being here I find myself becoming closest with Arabs and Egyptians, especially my Palestinian friends. Their personalities seem to match mine much better than many Americans in that we share a more communal outlook on life and put greater emphasis on pursuing causes beyond our self-betterment, whether its secular or spiritual. It is not that I do not still appreciate my friendships back in the States, if anything my closest ones have been put to the test and seem to have withstood it. Rather I have begun to recognize that when I return that I will approach friendship in a different way. What that exactly entails and what are the repercussions, I have not the slightest idea. All I do know is that being abroad and meeting friends from diverse backgrounds has widen my outlook on life beyond the horizon of suburban New Jersey and Pennsylvania. Being abroad has been the culmination of my desire to experience life outside of Ocean City, and as a result, I may be different than before but I still hold dear my love for family and friends that helped mold me back home.

Additionally, over the past weekend I had the opportunity to travel for two days to the western deserts, specifically the Black and White deserts. Situated about 4 hours southwest of Cairo, small oases dot the otherwise arid and khaki landscape of the Western Desert region. My group, which consisted of fellow AUCers, were fortunate to avoid public transportation and hire a microbus to take us back and forth from Cairo. As we were leaving Cairo the surrounding environment quickly devolves from a sprawling metropolis to an endless sea of caramel colored sand. Having endured the 4 hour trip in the microbus we arrived in one of the oasis, whose name slips my mind at the moment, deep within the desert. In some ways the town reminded of the feeling you get when visiting the Outbanks, particularly Ocracoke Island, in that both areas were isolated geographically yet seemed busiling with tourist activities. The biggest attraction of the oasis was the neighbouring Black and White Deserts, which true to their names, are huge expanses of sulfur and limestone sand, respectively. To tour the area you transfer everything into old Land Cruisers 4 x 4's and head out of town with bedouin guides/drivers, who are among the coolest people in the Middle East. Having once been exclusively nomadic, the bedouin, who are found across North Africa, the Levant, and Arabia, have now settled into sedentary lifestyles on the fringes of industrialized communities. In this case, the bedouin population had become the custodians of the deserts' beautiful sights and developed successful tourist companies in the oases. It was clear from the outset that our guide, who was a man of about 40 years, enjoyed his profession, judging by him singing a lot and chatting with us. Not to scare everyone, but the best part of trekking in this way was the way in which the guides handle driving. Although we probably topped out at 80 mph going across the desert and 100 on the roadways, I felt like our guide was always in control and sensed that all of us enjoyed the thrill of driving this fast. I think a lot of it had to do with the fact that we are used to being told to drive cautiously; well, out there what is there to really worry about.

After having driven for nearly 8 hours, touring various parts of the deserts along the way, we finally arrived in the rock formation fields of the White desert to pitch camp in traditional bedouin style. Some of these formations, like the one I have provided in my photos, resembled all kinds of animate objects, like chickens, rabbitts, and heads. More impressive than this was the night sky. I have never seen the sky so vividly at night - I actually got to see the Milky Way clearly, with its green tint and all. Also, the silence that accompanied being here allowed me to clear my head by taking in the awesomeness of nature without distractions. If you ever get the chance, please take the time to come here.

Ma'salaama for now,
Andrew


Currently Listening To:
Baroness "Wanderlust"

Comin' Home

Just the other evening a friend and I had a lengthy conversation over dinner about our experiences in Cairo and what we expected going back to the States. Taylor, a junior at American University in D.C., has been here longer than I have, since last February, and had returned home for the summer vacation. Through a history course and our involvement in the university's Palestinian activist group we have become close friends, often listening to each others' thoughts about all sorts of things: girls, politics, our undiagnosed neuroses. While our conversations often drift to the subject of longing for home, this time we dwelt on the topic for most of our dinner. Both of us had had busy weeks and in Taylor's case, a particularly stressful talk with a girl he hoped to start something with while here. For as much as each of us loves Egypt and the friends we have met here, we have both reached our breaking points and are ready to return home. Unlike the feelings of wanting to stay I get while on vacation, I now count the days until flying home. This is not to say that I do not still have amazing experiences ahead in the last month. I mean I will be traveling to the Sinai Peninsula and Israel/Palestine for my upcoming breaks, which will surely be epic in every sense.

I think at the heart of Taylor's and my longing for home is the fact that we have become overly frustrated with particular aspects of a society that remains foreign to us even after all these months. For instance, personally speaking, having had food poisoning nearly 7 times, with the latest occurrence happening this past weekend, has definitely put a damper on my experience in Cairo. Likewise, as a result of this, I become more easily agitated by otherwise minor annoyances, like attempts to make me pay more for whatever, be it a taxi ride or food. I guess you might say I am wrestling with trying to make sense of my experiences here and gain insight from them. To be honest, I am afraid of returning home in some ways. I know that I have changed, whether for better or worse. I am probably a bit more lazy than before and will miss going out for coffee and sheesha. At the same time I have found new internal strengths that I never knew existed previously. Considering this whirlwind of emotions I expect my transition back into American culture to have its hardships. Having lived under a dictatorial, conservative society I am sure some aspects of the States will seem just as foreign as coming to Egypt back in August. The one thing that is very clear right now is that the way I was living before coming here will never be the same. I recognize that in many ways I had been extremely selfish, like filling my closet and drawers with clothing I wore only once and then forgot about. Or praying to God for more of this and that.

Ma'salaama for now,
Andrew

Currently Listening To:

The Lawrence Arms "100 Resolutions"

Still Searching

This past week has been pretty hectic, which would explain the lack of posts recently. As a result of my involvement in numerous student organizations on campus and my classes' workloads, at times I was lucky just to enjoy a few moments to myself. It seems to be a reoccurring trend throughout my life: show enthusiasm for helping out, then watch my time evaporate. While I do not mind participating in efforts to improve the university, be it through activism or serving as a student representative to the administration, I have grown increasingly weary. To attend several meetings a week and maintain the image of the "non-traditional khaagid (Egyptian slang for "foreigner")" is extremely taxing and leaves me thoroughly exhausted when the weekends come. In many ways this situation reminds me of experiences back home, in any setting imaginable: church, Boy Scouts, workplaces, etc. Perhaps I put more pressure on myself than others do, well, yes, I know I do that already - it is what drives me. At some times I have wished to curse God for creating me in such a way, where I feel like I can never truly relax and accept medicrocy. However, I recognize that the fact that I do care so much about living life to the fullest always sets me apart from not only my peers, but also a great deal of adults. Yes, it may be naive of me to state this, but I perceive many people letting others direct their life choices and burdening them with regrets. I cannot point to a single text or person who has led me to this observation; rather it is the culmination of life experiences, of both the physical and spiritual sorts.

Speaking of spirituality, in addition to a busy week of meetings and courses, my mind has been wracked by a crisis of sorts. Living in a predominately Muslim country, studying Islam, and having numerous Muslim friends, there has been a great deal of pressure on my spiritual outlook since arriving in Egypt. I wish to make it absolutely clear that my friends have not made any attempts to convert me, so please do not assume what I am about to discuss was forced upon me. If anything, they have encouraged me to do as much thinking and research as I can before deciding on a religious path. As I have alluded to in previous posts, I had been questioning my faith in Christianity prior to even considering study abroad in Egypt. In actuality, my spiritual search had evolved over the course of my years spent at Ursinus, where I was exposed to new philosophical ideologies and presented with challenges to my faith. The way in which these challenges manifested themselves varied greatly, ranging from in-class debates to being out at parties and confronted with decisions about alcohol, sex, you fill in the blank. Then with coming to Cairo I really began to question whether my Christian upbringing was still fulfilling my spiritual needs. And to be honest, while I have decided against conversion, I remain perplexed by certain aspects of Christian doctrine, namely the concept of the Trinity. It is my plan to speak with my minister when I return home and hopefully through this, gain some clarity. While for some people it may be enough to simply accept faith, I must be true to myself and pursue more in depth explanations of theology. If I am to devote myself fully to God and live as he has prescribed, then it is only possible through uncovering the basis for accepted doctrine and understanding it.

Ma'salaama for now,
Andrew

Currently Listening To:
Thursday "As He Climbed the Dark Mountain"

P.S. - The first photo was taken this past Friday in my apartment with my roommates and our friends during the weekly Friday feast. The second photo is from Halloween; my friend Amanda and I went as Mrs. and Mr. Palin.

The Things That Are Usually Hidden

Some say
It's all fate
but I say we control our lives
And if my destiny should out best me then that's fine.
I make believe thrill and apathy co-exist in me fairly equally
The truth is doubts are all I've got to call mine.

-Bayside "Duality"

As it has probably become evident, music is an important part of my life. The lyrics that I have quoted here effectively summarize my thought process as of recent. As ridiculous as it may sound this week has done more to encourage personal reflection than any other portion of my time in Cairo. I know all of this may sound like I am just being overly dramatic, but I believe that each individual can experience moments of great insight at any point in their life. We tend to associate wisdom exclusively with those who have weathered the storm that is life and all of its constantly fluctuating pace. This outlook on our lives simplifies the experiences of younger individuals, who may in fact have had endured more dramatic situations and thus, emerged wise. I do not credit a single incident with initiating my reflections this week, rather there have been several ones that have contributed to a general need to sort through my thoughts.

One of these incidents came in the form of I guess what you might label as separation anxiety. I usually do not elaborate about my relationships with others on here because I find too many people maintaining blogs whine about insignificant problems already. Sparing you all of the details I will briefly explain how particular loved ones' words, or in this case lack of, can effectively bring me to my knees so to speak. Each of us have people in our lives like this, whether it is a beloved, friend, or mentor. For me at the present time it is my family and girlfriend; both are able to relate in a way that cannot be shut out. While I had expected some homesickness and the anxiety that arises from it, I did not account for the degree in which they were affect me. Yes, I have had some amazing experiences since being here and I have no regrets about coming here, as evident by my past posts and pictures. At the same time there has been a constant tugging at my heart for being home. Initially it was the sound of loved ones' voices on the other side of the Atlantic that hurt most and caused me to long for home. Now that I have settled into a new life here that is relaxed in comparison to home I become uneasy at times because loved ones cannot relate to what I am experiencing here. It appears that culture shock transcends even e-mails, phone calls, and Facebook messages. I am not blaming anyone for this situation but I ask that individuals be more aware of this cultural disconnect. While I may seem distant or needy, understand that being away this far and long is something to me as well as you, and look inward for strength if need be. Out of the physical separation from loved ones I have done just this, attempting to become more spiritual and an overall better human being through internal reflection. Being here in a society where religion is all around, it is hard not to become inspired by individuals that you encounter daily. This blog could never hold the amount of life experiences I have had these past two months, and more are sure to arise during my last two months in Egypt.

The other event that occured this week that has incited more reflection took place last night. As a member of the Palestinian activist group, al-Quds (Arabic for "Jerusalem"), I had been asked to help usher a concert hosted by the club and the university. Riim Banna, a Palestinian folk singer, performed for nearly an hour and half accompanied by her Ukranian husband on guitar. Her voice was unlike anything I have ever heard before, ranging from angelic to soaring highs. The crowd, which consisted of Palestinian and Arab dignitaries and Cairo's Palestinian population, was filled with energy and Riim played into this during her performance. It reminded me of a modern, evangelical Christian gathering, where people sway back and forth, almost entering a trance state of esctasy. My friends and I raced throughout the crowd stirring people to their feet and clapping to the point of turning our hands strawberry red. Only after being pestered by an AUC faculty member did we stop, but our efforts had already caused the crowd to become so loud that security guards could not stop the energy. Since arriving in Egypt I have become increasingly concerned about the current political situation in Israel and the Occupied Territories, specifically the displacement of Palestinian citizens. AUC has a large number of students from both Gaza and the West Bank, some of which are my closest friends here, and talking with them has changed my mind about the Arab-Israeli conflict. To hear personal stories from them about being evicted from their homes by the Israeli military and wondering if they would arrive at school without being hurt has had a lasting impact on me. I had previously empathized more with Israel as the victim of Arab and Iranian harassment, but now my opinion has become more balanced. Judging by the pictures, documentaries, and experiences I have encountered the situation in Palestine is nothing short of a human rights' disaster. And what most people do not seem to comprehend in the US is that Palestinians are not only Muslims, but also Christians. It is apalling that the US media portrays Palestine as nothing but a haven for terrorists; if you met my friends you would find they are just like us in their desire for self-improvement and security. Like the Israelis who persecute them, many Palestinians have been forced into a diaspora of sorts, fleeing to Jordan, Egypt, Europe, and the US. It seems so ironic. Inshallah (Arabic for "God willing") I will be traveling to the Holy Land for a week in December to visit Jerusalem and the West Bank. I do not know what exactly to expect but I know it will be life changing.

Currently listening to:
The Appleseed Cast "Sunlight Ascending"

What Do You Go Home To?

Before I get into any heavy material and reflections, I have one thing to say: rain!!!!! This afternoon I saw rain for the first time in Cairo. At no point in my life did I ever think that I would miss the sight of raindrops, but since being here I have grown anxious to see something other than the sun and smog. For about half an hour the sky grew increasingly gray and then all of the sudden I saw the apartment windows become smeared with droplets. Although this shower lasted for only twenty minutes, it drastically changed the view of Cairo from my apartment. I could actually see true blue sky and feel cool air brush up against my face when I opened the window. I do not believe I have ever appreciated a clear sky as much as I had this afternoon, not even during the most beautiful back-bay sunsets.

Onto general updates and anything else worthy of publishing to the world. There have been numerous developments within the student organization where I am serving as president for the remainder of the semester. Just this past week the Foreign Students' Organization (FSA) received further congratulatory remarks from the AUC administration, stating that they recognize the organization as a new leader on campus and role model for future student initiatives. Additionally, I am no longer finding it necessary to forgoe sleep and schoolwork for the sake of the FSA, thanks to the contributions of more students to the group's efforts on campus. Whereas before I would spend more time manning the booth, where we sell food and speaking with students about their concerns, than in class, I have been able to go "play student" as my friends and I refer to doing academic work. Furthermore, the FSA has begun to formalize itself, which will give the group legitimacy before pre-exisiting student organizations. Hopefully this will alleviate any ill-blood between the FSA and the Student Union, who's "president"acts more like a dictator than an elected official. He has become a favorite discussion topic among the core officers of the FSA, who see him as a representation of what is wrong with Egypt in general: democracy that has been hijacked by incompentent individuals. It is ironic that this young man, the president of the Student Union, shares the same name as one of Egypt's most famous reformers, Muhammed Ali.

Aside from the growing popularity and influence of the FSA on campus, the organization has been very active with developing a lecture series for all students. Just this Wednesday we began the series with a screening of the documentary "Occupation 101," which presents the Israeli-Palestinian conflict in from a Palestinian perspective. I cannot put to words what emotions and thoughts rushed through my head while watching this film. To see images of Palestinian families being forced off their farms and have their homes demolished by Israeli bulldozers filled me with saddeness and rage. Prior to coming to Egypt I would have considered myself more or less ambivalent towards the situation in the Holy Land. It is not that I was ignorant of events but I felt that the matter seemed hopeless given the Israeli bias of the US. Looking back, I had just not exerted enough effort to try to make a difference. Since arriving in Cairo, I have become increasingly enthused by working with the Palestinian activist group on campus, Al-Quds, that attempts to raise awareness and promote peaceful solutions to the situations in the West Bank and Gaza. The members of the club are among some of the brightest students that I have met since being here and not to mention, the bravest. The majority of Palestinian students here are unable to return home currently to visit their families since Israel has declared the Palestinian territories "unsafe and sites of terrorist activity." Even if these students were allowed to return home, the journey back is ardeous and is not for the weak-hearted. By this I mean, Palestinians are subjected to strip-searches, splitting up of families on buses, hours to days spent at border crossings, and general humilitiation. While I cannot blame the Israelis for feeling constantly under threat given the history of anti-Israeli feelings across the Middle East, these measures have generated only further threats. Violence met by violence does not solve anything, history has shown me this.

All of this activist work has definitely had a positive impact upon my life thus far. In many ways I am at a cross-road in my life's direction. One part of me longs for being back home, among loved-ones and an environment that is relatively stable. Another tugs at me to abandon all of that for more time abroad either traveling or working towards the betterment of others. Each path offers what will surely be amazing experiences, but in very different ways. Even at age 21, I have had thoughts of wanting the trappings of suburban life: a peaceful environment to raise a family, much like the one I have been brought up in. However, the other, more youthful side of me desires non of that (at least right now). I recognize within myself this dichotomy and it is the most significant challenge before me right now. I have come to terms with the fact that by choosing either direction involves sacrifices, it does little to ease thoughts of potentially losing certain individuals in my life. I do not mean physically, since the Internet and cellphones have done wonders in keeping people in close contact, rather I am alluding to the emotional losses inherant to moving away. Being away just these few months has already exposed the potential emotional toll that comes with leaving. At the present time I am not sure which way I will choose but it is cathartic to just put my thoughts to words.

Ma'salaama for now,
Andrew

P.S. - The first picture here is of my tour guide in Luxor. Look like anyone famous in the news right now? ::Cough, cough:: Our next president ::cough, cough::

Out of Step With the World

This entry's title shares the same one as a Minor Threat song by the same name, which I found to be extremely fitting for reflecting on my experiences this weekend. Just as a little bit of music history for the sake of context, Minor Threat emerged out of the early 1980s hardcore punk scene in the greater Washington, D.C.-area pioneering what would be become referred to as the "straight edge movement" and infusing punk rock with intelligence. Instead of dwelling on how crappy life could be like many first wave punk bands did, Ian MacKaye and company minute long songs that revolved around themes of self-empowerment, clean living, and political activism. I can picture anyone reading this entry scratching their heads at the thought of me, someone who is pretty clean-cut and mild mannered, listening to something so cathartic as hardcore punk music. The truth is that it has been a secret passion of my ever since my late high school years, and my love for it has only grown since being at college. There is nothing I can think of that can equal being squished into a basement of a church or other building to hear music played loud and fast, to the point that speakers often are blown by the show's end. Many times when I was at school I would forego partying (and readings) to venture down into Philadelphia to various venues for a night of music. Going to "shows" has become a method of purging my mind of all negative thoughts through a collective experience that consists of shouting along the lyrics to songs right with the band, which is usually situated only a few feet above the floor. Yes, at times it has been dangerous; I have seen my fair share of fights between guys, but that is part of the appeal of hardcore to me. It is compelling, it pushes boundaries and does not care much for what mainstream society's latest trends.

By this point you are probably asking so how does this relate to anything in Egypt? Well, it does in many ways that are not always obvious. Over the past two days I participated in the American University in Cairo's first annual Intercultural Awareness Day event that sought to bring the campus community closer together through small group discussions. The program itself was a workshop facilitated by two German political scientists, Simon and Bjorn, who had decided to quit university teaching to travel the world with their program, PlanPolitik. Beginning with some games aimed at examining how people tend to enter situations with preconceptions and stereotypes, the workshop truly got underway Saturday morning. Unfortunately, I missed the morning session because of a fieldtrip for an Islamic architecture class (pictures in here are from that trip). Arriving after I return this afternoon, I engaged in numerous small group discussions that allowed me to ask questions of Egyptian students about their culture. It was a rare opportunity where I felt very at ease, although it took some courage to move pass the thought of, "Oh, I should not ask them that, that might make me look like an idiot." I found that my questions, such as those concerning the hijaab (Muslim head scarf worn by women) and other cultural practices, were well received and I benefitted from the answers given by other group members. Additionally, each group had to partake in developing skits that would make light of the stereotypes that both Egyptians and non-Egyptians have constructed about each other. For instance, my group played up Egyptians thinking that Americans are so driven by orderliness and become easily stressed out when forced to be patient. On the other hand, we portrayed Egyptians as seeking to rip-off foreigners by charging high prices for various services, like taxis. This exercise revealed how ridiculous these stereotypes are and the need for individuals to combat them through nuturing intercultural dialogue.

Relating this intercultural experience back to my affinity for hardcore punk, I turn to the similarities between these two components of my life. As I had said before, Minor Threat and other bands that would follow in their footsteps, such as Modern Life is War and Have Heart recently, have been proponents of challenging the nonchalant approach to life. Their music, like the workshop this weekend, has served as a positive, driving force in my life and living it with passion. Whereas many young people currently do not seek to push themselves beyond their comfort zones, be it a suburban development or clique of friends, I can honestly say I have taken risks thanks to listening to this music. I do not know exactly how it all started because I am not upset with my family or anything like that, I love them all dearly and am eternally grateful for my upbringing. Therefore, I believe that I first listened to this extreme form of music out of a desire to be different and "out of step" through methods other than dying my hair ridiculous colors. All of that, in my opinion, is frivolous and not a sign of a true rebelious spirit. For example, all the time and money those kids on the boardwalk spent getting piercings/tattoos they could have invested their minds in reading philosophy and other stuff of substance. What I am arguing is that being "punk," whatever that means anyways, should not be confined to a narrow definition and be synonomous with looking like a walking jewelry shop. With that said, my act of being rebelious is rooted in striving to live honestly and pushing myself to explore the world. Very much like the Romantics of the early 19th century, I believe that life experiences are among the best ways to learn and foster positive change. Through activities like the Intercultural Awareness event, I see that it is people like myself, who care little for the mainstream, who are becoming the leaders in trying to heal the wounds inflicted by racism, ethnocentricism, and religious intolerance.

New Direction

My apologies for having not written for several days, my school work has been rapidly accumulating on my shelves and my commitments to the Foreign Students' Association require more of my attention each day. The organization has experienced a number of significant victories in its campaign to bring affordable food options to campus. As of Thursday morning, the administration and dining services formally approved our efforts and backed off from their threats of shutting down the booth. Needless to say, my friends and I are very happy to have received this news and plan to take advantage of this situation to expand our efforts. Just tonight I spent nearly two hours with the four other individuals who make up the FSA's core leaders determining where we wish to sell food as to serve our peers best and how to alleviate some headaches that stem from trying to transport food to campus. It is funny how three weeks ago I had stopped by the booth on a whim and now here I am serving as the group's president. Thus far running the FSA has been very taxing, but at the same time extremely rewarding in that it has helped me grow as a person. For example, my Thursday afternoon consisted of several meetings with other student organizations' presidents to develop closer ties between them and the FSA. I am beginning to feel like a politician, employing diplomacy to further my organization's goals of helping other international students while also trying to not alienate them from the rest of campus. It has been a lesson in political tact, especially the art of compromise and knowing how to make an established system work for you. Hopefully after I return from Cairo I can find a way to employ these skills, maybe making a career out of politics at some point. Speaking of which, a friend offered to provide me with contact information for a lobby group in D.C. working on behalf of Palestinians. It might be a good option for employment after graduation for a year to build a stronger resume for law/graduate school. Also, I like the idea of helping people that have been underrepresented in American media and often portrayed unfairly. During the December break I'm hoping to get into Israel and Gaza to visit with some of the other members of the FSA.

Ma'salaama for now,
Andrew

Use Your Words

While I should really be getting to bed since I have to be up at 8 AM, I felt that I needed to do some writing to ease my mind. Now that the semester is approaching its middle my classes have been requiring more of me than during the entire first month of classes. In many ways it seems like several professors have suddenly realized that the semester needs to be salvaged somehow since a month was spent sorting through the mess that has been AUC's grand journey to New Cairo. A brief note about the new campus. It is absolutely beautiful, with its Arabesque decorated buildings and rows of young palm trees dotting the otherwise bleak, tan landscape. With that said, I would like to relate to you how unorganized the administration is here, which detracts from an otherwise great experience in Egypt. Not that I have not scratched my head at some of Ursinus's actions in the past, but AUC's inemptness triumphs all. For example, the administration here has repeatedly withheld information pertaining to the completion of important facilities on campus, like student housing, cafeteria, and gym complexes. Just this past week it was made known across campus that the dormitories would not be complete until early 2009, well after the November 1st deadline widely publicized at the beginning of the semester. Thankfully, I had the opportunity to move out of the temporary hotel housing earlier and move into an apartment. In response to this issue and others, a number of international students developed an organization to address their concerns, calling it the Foreign Students' Association. As a result of being in the right place, at the right time, I was named president by the group's founder, Phil Zager, a student from USC. For whatever reason, I have been responsible for crafting several letters written to various members of the administration addressing the myriad of issues facing both international and Egyptian students.
I am extremely happy to lend any of my talents, although I do not see them as anything special, to the group with the hope of leaving a positive mark on the university. I know that I probably should not care so much since I am only here for a semester, but I cannot deny my passion for serving something bigger than myself. This semester has definitely been an experience beyond anything that I thought of before arriving in Egypt. I have already learned a great deal about the differences between Western and Eastern mentalities when it comes to problem solving, politics, love, etc. I am not in the position to pass judgements - there is still too much I do not know. What I do know definitively is that if I can help bridge some of these gaps in understanding somehow, either directly or indirectly, then all the risks I took coming here have been worth it.

Ma'salaama for now,

Andrew

Currently listening to: Owen "The Sad Waltzes of Pietro Crespi"

Could you love someone enough
after all you've had and you've lost?
It's a simple question
I'm only asking 'cause I don't want to die alone

Could you love someone completely?
and yes, by "someone" I mean me
Spoiled sick like milk you let sit too long
It's a simple question

Song for the Youth

Seeing how so many young Egyptians have been taught to accept their "place" in society and not question it, I instantly thought of how many American youth have been increasingly content with their ignorance. The old cliche of "Ignorance is bliss" truly has taken hold of young people around the world, and frankly, it is very scary. I wish I could collectively shake my peers out of this state and make them realize that regardless of what they might think, we will eventually have to command the world when our elders have passed. In the mean time all I can do is continue to live my life with passion and hopefully be an example for others. While I was writing this, I was drawn to a particular song that reinforces the theme of breaking this cycle of apathy and resentment, which seem to grip so many young people both in Egypt and the US. Here are the lyrics so you see what I mean:

Modern Life is War "Breaking the Cycle"

This marks the return of a threat that we should have never taken back: to live our lives with unwavering intent and in the spirit of a new romance. Growing up in an age where monotony reigns...it's so easy to keep your heart and mind locked away. And it's up to you to rise up...to break away. We've got no more time to spend spitting ugly words at our vicious circles from within. The time has come to adapt and reinvent. Let yourself go. come unhinged. Claws out...stuck in a place where you don't fit. Focus or fold....no more sitting on the fence. Today is the day we face ourselves and forgive, because the world won't wait while we fail to make amends. Late night adventure. Reckless abandonment. We're going to live our lives like it's our last chance. Revenge: we're taking back what they stole. Prepare your soul!

Ma'salaama for now,
Andrew

Permanence

As I had mentioned last week, I was heading to the southern part of Egypt for my fall break with a group of friends from my courses here. Customary to Muslims across the world, the end of Ramadan, the Muslim Holy month, is a time of great jubilation and feasting, much like any Christian holiday. My Egyptian friends and roommates all spent their breaks at home with their families throughout the country. With any native Egyptian returning home for the week long celebration, the international students here also spent their vacations in transit, venturing out of the crowded streets of Cairo. Having overheard a friend mention her plans to tour southern Egypt in my art history class, I asked if it would be possible for me to join the group. She seemed elated since the group only had one other guy in it at that point. I was equally excited at the prospect of seeing some of the world's oldest surviving monuments and clearing my lungs of the air pollution.

The group that I traveled with consisted of 6 other students from the university; each brought to the trip unique past life experiences and personal characteristics. For the sake of brevity I will tell just a little bit about each person so you get an idea of the diversity among us. Three girls, Alyssa, Lara, and Nishreen, all are juniors at Yale University, studying Middle Eastern studies at AUC and living together in an apartment in Zamalek. Amanda, a junior history major at Indiana University, was our group's resident tour guide for many of the temples we saw and exuded Mid-Western charm. Yousef, a junior Middle Eastern studies major at Duke University, was my roommate in each of the hotels we stayed in during the trip. We talked extensively about his youth, which was spent in Jordan as part of a Palestinian refugee family. Caitlin, a graduate student at AUC and Mormon missionary, was definitely one of the most interesting people on the trip.

Starting off the trip, we endured a 19 hour train ride to Aswan - if traveling by car, the trip would've taken about a quarter of that. To give you an accurate picture of what it was like, just imagine being stuck in a compartment about the size of 4 office cubicles, add 7 people to it with their luggage, and bam! there you have our trip to Aswan. And this was the first class section of the train, too! After getting back I did some reading about the rail system in Egypt and apparently, much of it is very antiquated and consists of the remnants of the British colonial era. If you have seen pictures from National Geographic depicting people pouring out of train windows in India, it's the same thing here in Egypt for non-1st class riders. Needless to say, it would not be a comfortable ride if you were take anything but 1st class on an Egyptian train haha. Despite the annoyances of our compartment, it sure beat traveling in what essentially is a container car. I tried to grab whatever sleep I could and make the most out of the limited floor space that was left. I actually was able to get about 6 hours of decent rest, awaking to the fierce southern Egypt sun seaping through the blinds. Oh, what a false sense of hope I got when I saw the sun! Little did we know that we would have to endure another 8 hours on the train before arriving in Aswan around 5 PM on Tuesday. We later found out that one of the 3rd class trains in front of us had been losing power each time it stopped at a station and delayed all other trains as a result.

Once we arrived in Aswan we were met by our tour guide, Ahmed and taken by van to our hotel, Orchieda, a few blocks from the train station. Our accomadations were very nice for the cheap price we paid and were close to the main cornish running along the Nile. After showering and laying down on a soft bed for a bit, the group and I had dinner at a nearby riverboat restaurant - it was very lackluster and not worth the praise it got in a guide book. Since we were still hungry and wanted to see the town, we ventured into the souq, or market area, for a bit. It was like navigating through an obstacle course, with merchants jumping over each other for your attention. I have grown accustomed to this practice and largely ignore them, just waving them away or sometimes even saying "Laa shukran" - Arabic for no thank you. I could only imagine what Ocean City would be like if store owners were as persistent as their Egyptian counterparts. I did eventually find a jewelry store that I wanted to investigate and I spent an hour searching for something for my father. I decided to purchase a Nubian-styled silver bracelet, etched with interlocking bands lining its exterior band. The beauty of shopping in stores like this is the fact that you can get a real bargain on items, like this bracelet. Initially starting out at 160 pounds (roughly 30 American dollars) I got the price down to 110 pounds - not bad for my limited Arabic and being American. The key to getting the deal is to be steadfast in getting your desired price on an item; I typically act disinterested until I hear my price. Something tells me that my father would do well shopping here, considering his profession haha.

The following day we woke up at 3 AM to catch our van to Abu Simbel, which is the site of the Great Temple of Rameses II. The site is about 290 km from Aswan, laying next to the man-made Lake Nasser and largely removed from civilization. Thanks to the ingenious thinking of the Egyptian government, all tourists visiting the area have to congregate into a convoy that leaves Aswan each day at the same time - it'd make for an easy target for any robbers or terrorists. Without any problems, we arrived in Abu Simbel around 8 AM and toured the monuments there, shown partially in my 2nd photo. What are depicted here are the 4 colossi of Rameses II guarding the entrance to his temple. Each one depicts the pharaoh at a different age, ranging from age 20 to 50, representing his enduring reign over Egypt. The temple is absolutely amazing and epic in size - its interior is decorated with reliefs showing the pharaoh on campaign and among the gods. I would say if you had to pick the top places to see in Egypt, Abu Simbel is definitely among the top.

Piling back into our van to return to Aswan, we left Abu Simbel and headed for the Philae Temple complex, shown in the first picture. Situated on an island in the Nile, the temple is only accessible by water taxi. Most of its decoration dates from the Ptolemic period (320 - 87 BCE). Most of the reliefs found inside and outside of the temple depict the pharaoh smiting his enemies and enagaging in religious ceremonies, both of which are salient themes found on most ancient Egyptian monuments.

After completing our tour of the Aswan sites, we hopped on a felucca sailboat for a 2 day cruise north towards Luxor. Roughly 30 feet long, this single sail boat is well-suited for the Nile: shallow draft, large sail, which allow it to navigate the river with great ease. Our boat was captained by two Bedouin gentlemen; the one around 60 years old and the other in his early 20s. Although they spoke very little English, the group was blessed to have two individuals near fluent in Arabic, so we were able to convey our needs and joke around (Egyptians love a good joke and playing pranks). Their hospitality was unrivaled; they cooked meals for us over the 2 days aboard the boat and took us ashore to see the rural villages lining the river. It was great to see some green again and sail - it reminded me of sailing in Ocean City with my grandfather. Taken at sunrise on my 2nd day aboard, the picture above clearly shows the beauty of the Nile River outside of industrialized northern Egypt. During the two evenings we were on the felucca, the group engaged in a series of lengthy discussions of religion, philosophy, sing-a-longs, and collective therapy. Since each of us came from different religious backgrounds we had a plethora of topics to debate, including the difference in Muslim and Christian versions of holy stories. In many ways it showed me that despite coming from diverse backgrounds, we were all striving for the same thing: peace of mind and some sign that our good deeds aren't going unnoticed.

This last point brings me to something I've been doing a lot of thinking about, even before studying in Egypt. Over the course of the past year I have been doing considerable amounts of research on various religious traditions, both Christian and non-Christian. As many of you are already aware, I have taken a particular interest in studying Islam and am pursuing a religious studies minor at Ursinus somewhat as a result of taking courses examining this religion. In addition to looking at Islam from an academic perspective, I also had become interested in for more personal reasons. At the same time that I began studying Islam at Ursinus, I was also experiencing some of the most trying periods in my young adult life. Although not apparent to loved ones, friends, or significant other, I had been trying to cope with what you might call an existential crisis of sorts. I cannot explain how this came to be, but it did and it left me questioning the stuff that I had perceived as my foundations in life: God, family, a long-term relationship. Additionally, there was the constant pressure of my academics weighing down on me and my own internal A-type personality to battle. Amidst this chaos I was searching for something that would allow me to live life without having all these things on my mind, and so I began investigating Islam in private. It was rather easy to do since I was reading numerous texts for my courses and had friends to ask about any questions I had. I do not know how to explain it but during this period of research I was growing much happier and felt reconnected with God. And so with deciding to study in Egypt for the fall, I was even happier to experience life in a Muslim country and further investigate the religion. However, my dreams of being welcomed warmly as someone interested in converting were quickly crushed upon arriving here. Instead of finding Muslims living according to the tenants outlined by the Qur'an and the Prophet's advice, I witnessed individuals oppressing each other and not overly friendly towards non-Egyptians. How does this all relate to the debates aboard the felucca? Well, those conversations between the group and what I stated above, made me realize that I honestly do not see myself as observing one particular religion at this point in my life and have no interest in converting from Christianity. Rather I see myself becoming more spiritual during the course of my stay in Egypt and focusing on trying to develop a closer connection with God through living a good life. In a lot of ways I have been borrowing from various religious traditions over the years in striving to accomplish this goal, just now I feel confident enough to let loved ones know this.

Ma'salaama for now and with love,
Andrew

One last thing, the last picture was taken during my exploration of the Hatsheput Temple complex outside of Luxor with a man who had tied my scarf in traditional Bedouin style.

Currently listening to: Pelican "March to the Sea"

Standing Before the Remains of the Gods

Waking up at 8 AM this morning I never thought that my day would incite both emotional extremes: near ecstasy and unnerving fear. I had planned last night to tour the pyramid complex in Giza with a friend who also had not gone before. Both of us became excited at the thought of visiting a site so ancient and epic in scale; it's what happens when you pair up two humanities majors for an adventure. Brenden, my friend who was to accompany me, however, was forced to wait in an Egyptian government office for the visa he needed for our upcoming break next week, and therefore, unable to go with me to the pyramids. Knowing that I had been looking forward to going, Brenden was kind enough to guide me through the Cairo metro station and set me on the train to Giza.

While I have ridden in the Philadelphia subway on numerous occasions, nothing quite compares to the Cairo metro system. On a whole I would say that it is cleaner than its American counterparts; however, it lacks the extensive air conditioning equipment found back in the States. After taking the train for about 15 minutes I arrived at Giza Station, roughly a 15 minute taxi ride from the pyramids. As is the case elsewhere in the city, especially at bastions of Western culture like the malls, taxi drivers wait for potential clients right outside the station, darting forward at the sight of any non-Egyptian looking person. The driver that drove me to Giza was extremely nice and chatty for a Cairene (resident of Cairo) taxi driver. Using the limited Arabic I knew, we chatted about my travels around Egypt and the city, as well as the hardships of fasting during Ramadan. Side note: I've been fasting on-and-off throughout September, which this year is the Muslim Holy Month of Ramadan, as a way to reinvigorate my senses, specifically taste. He was also nice enough or business savvy enough to drop me off right by a stable, which are a dime a dozen by the pyramids. Horseback and camel riding are one of the main sources of income for the residents of Giza, and many of them are excellent horsemen, even young children handle Arabian stallions with ease. I was welcomed into the home of the stable's owner, a middle-aged Egyptian man; I unfortunately do not recall his name. Regardless, we talked for almost 20 minutes before turning to the reason I had come to Giza: to see the pyramids. As it seems to be the case with any tourist spot, Egyptians attempt to talk you into buying the most expensive item and are very persistent, but if you are stalwart in demanding exactly what you want, you will eventually triumph. With this in mind, I listened to the gentleman's offers for touring the pyramid complex and I had to ask for the simplest package several times before he ended it with a reoccurring phrase, "As you wish." It is the clear indicator that you have won the deal haha. For 200 Egyptian pounds, roughly $40 American, I was provided with a camel (named Banana), a guide who rode with me, and an entry pass to the plateau. My guide, named Abdullah, like his boss, was extremely personable and catered the trip to my desires. Seeing that Banana would move at a very slow pace, we spent a good portion of the trek talking in both Arabic and English about our families, plans for the coming Eid (religious holiday), and his affinity for the European tourists that frequented the pyramids.

Having never been on a camel before, it was a little unsettling at first. Unlike any other moving object I've been in a camel rocks side-to-side as it walks forwards, occassionally trotting. With both the guide and I riding together on a single camel, we moved a little quicker when Abdullah would spur Banana. I can see now why it took so long for desert caravans to arrive at their destinations and the camel was not widely used as a war animal. Despite its drawbacks, the camel is pretty mild in tempermant and not skiddish like a horse, which made my trek more enjoyable. Riding for nearly two hours, I was able to walk up to the 3 main pyramids on the plateau and take pictures of the area. Thanks to Abdullah's help, I have a number of pictures to show.


As for the part about unnerving fear, since I had left the dorm this morning without much forethought aside from grabbing my camera and the Gazette for pictures, I forgot to withdraw more money. Having paid for my transportation and the site seeing, I was left with 10 pounds by the time to leave. Ontop of this predicament, there were no ATM's in sight. Attempting to relate this problem to my guide in the best Arabic I could muster, we walked for nearly a mile without any luck. I could not think of a worse situation to be in, then be stuck a good 30 minutes from the dorms and without the money to pay for a cab ride home. Luckily, by what I consider divine intervention, my guide negogiated with a cab driver to get me to an ATM and then I'd pay the driver. The first ATM we came to had run out of money to dispense; dread crept over my face at this point. I felt myself grow clamy and had the urge to throw up despite not having had anything to eat since the morning. Al-hamdulliah (Thanks be to God) the next ATM was working and allowed me to withdraw money. Needless to say, I was very relieved to tell the driver to take me back to the dorms and I showed my appreciation for his patience by giving him an extra 15 pounds.

In retropsect, today was among the most eventful days that I have experienced since arriving in Cairo. While I wanted to break down and cower at several points, I continued to tell myself that I would make it home somehow, even if it required a little stress haha.

Ma'salaama for now,
Andrew

Travel Hymn

Here is a sampling of some of my photos, which I will try to intersperse with blog posts. Many of these pictures carry with them extensive stories, and so does everything I seem to become involved with here in Cairo. For the sake of brevity I will try to be succinct in recounting the back-stories to each of these pictures.

Beginning at the top left, this picture is of the inner courtyard of the Zamalek dormitories where I live in an apartment with 4 other students. Unlike the dorms at Ursinus, the Zamalek dorms are a converted youth hostel with a large cafeteria area inside and a lobby similar to any hotel. Additionally, there is the courtyard, which is shown in the picture, where students can sit out and study while getting some air and sun. I personally don't generally sit out here just because my computer's battery doesn't last very long and there's no plugs in sight haha.

Next is a picture I took while riding in a bus to one of the night events during orientation back when I first arrived in Cairo. It was almost surreal seeing the pyramids in the distance, growing in granduer as the bus got closer to Giza. I remember thinking I must be dreaming since I was within a few miles of something so epic and ancient.

The following two pictures are from my weekend spent in the Sinai town of Dahab, located about 2 hours south of the Egyptian-Israeli border on the Red Sea coast. About the size of Strathmere, the town is a lively tourist vacation spot, notable for its prestine waters, exotic sealife, diving, and kite boarding. Most of the town is situated directly on the coast and is connected by a long promenade that stretches for 5 miles, almost like the Ocean City boardwalk. Along the promenade you can find numerous hostels, restaurants, and shops selling anything from drinks to diving equipment. My friends and I stayed in a place called the Neptune Motel; it cost only $15 per person for a two night stay in a triple room. The staff was awesome and incredibly helpful - they even booked day-trips and our bus tickets for the return trip to Cairo. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to do much besides sit on the beach and go swimming since I was sick with some type of stomach infection during my stay. I'm hoping to go back at some point later this semester and bring antibiotics just in case this time!

Finally, the last picture is from my trip to Alexandria during the week right before classes began at the beginning of this month. As part of the itinerary the group visited a bunch of sights around the city, one being the Roman theater complex. Dating back to the age of Caesar, the theater was situated among a busy neighborhood with its own market and insulae, the Roman equivalent of the duplex. Where I'm standing in my picture is atop the seats of the theater, roughly 25 feet above the ground. It blewn my mind to think that I was standing in the same spot as a Roman citizen thousands of years ago.

Ma'salaama for now,
Andrew

<-- Taken at my hotel roommate's house following the Iftar celebration dinner his family hosted. I've never eaten so much in my life, especially lamb and eggplant.

Immersion and Its Consequences

Not that I wish to be overly dramatic or deviate much from my usual cheerful tone exerted in my previous posts, but I feel moved by recent experiences to relate some interesting observations about my immersion into Egyptian culture. Foremost, I wish to emphasize that what I am about to write is purely my opinion and is not intended to act as an authority on Egyptian culture; I only speak from what I have observed first hand and the thoughts they have stirred. With that being said a number of insights into the nature of Egyptian society have presented themselves through my day-to-day interactions with other American and Egyptian students, as well as individuals I have encountered while traveling, getting meals, etc. One of the most apparent characteristics of Egyptian society is that it is very much a two-tiered system, much like any other militarized pseudo-democracy, such as Russia or various South American nations. While coming here I had been aware that Egypt was definitely more authoritarian than the United States, I was not savvy to what extent that meant and how it would affect my life as a student in Cairo. The military definitively controls the nation's populace through a distinct presence, namely by doing things such as flooding the population with military propaganda in the form of the 6th of October Victory bridge and memorial. To be brief, these monuments attest to the government's desire to paint a different picture of the nation's near destruction at the hands of Israel in their war over control of the Suez by claiming the Egyptians could have marched on Tel Aviv had the US not intervened and called for a cease fire. I was floored when an RA told my friends and I that exact version of the Egyptian-Israeli conflict - I held my tongue and just shook my head internally. Then again, every country does things like this in some fashion; unfortunately, the old saying to the effect of "the victor gets to write history" holds true everywhere. Getting back to my main point about the two-tiered structure of Egyptian society, this became very apparent through my experiences on campus and exploring the city. For example, the Egyptian students I attend the university with are among the wealthiest in the country and oh, does it show! Despite being used to this with attending Ursinus (I'm looking your way, Main Line), my shock was not lessened when I walked on campus the first day. I've never seen so many Louis Vouton bags, pairs of Gucci shoes, or designer jeans in a single place until the first day of classes last Sunday. Not that I do not enjoy luxury items (mom and dad can attest to my affinity for JCrew) but it felt like you had to flaunt them to be accepted among the Egyptian student population. I also noticed that unless engaged by you, many Egyptian students will not make any attempt at conversation or introduction. This may have several causes, which I have not fully perceived just yet, but it seems like Egyptians have become very conservative in their social interactions. From this I'd like to move onto another observation: the blatant biases found throughout Egyptian culture. One that I experience daily is rooted in the fact that I am a white, male foreigner - a target for being charged more for a cab ride around the city, food from small vendors, and merchants at markets. Fortunately, I always have the option of declining whatever is being offered to me since there's always a dozen more options available. Much of what I am experiencing in Cairo conjures up thoughts of what it must've been like to be an African-American living in the South during the pre-Civil Rights' movement era. Additionally, the girls I have befriended here have been subjected to sexual harrassment, ranging from cat calls to groping on the streets. What is more appalling is that Egyptian women are also the victims of this treatment and many remain silent about it! While I understand the social reprocutions for speaking out about this for women, it does not excuse the government's apathetic stance in policing the crime.

Enough ranting for now; I need to get some sleep before classes tomorrow.

Ma'salaama for now,
Andrew